Elie Saab Couture Spring 2026: All That Glitters
Elie Saab served up gilded glamour in a collection that drew on the jet-set that partied around the Mediterranean, from Milos to Marrakech, in the 1970s and the hedonistic spirit they brought along with their luggage.
The show’s palette was dominated by metallic golds, bronze and milk chocolate tones, with a single pop of purple punctuating the otherwise gilded spectrum.
While Saab cited the decadent ’70s, the collection also drew on that decade’s revival of Art Deco, with references evident in geometric beading, chevrons, metallics, graphic symmetry and sweeping curves. Swimsuit-style dresses with cutouts and halternecks — originally inspired by 1930s activewear — also appeared in the lineup.
Glitter, lamé and sequins abounded, alongside long beaded scarves, capes and full-length sleeveless vests that added bohemian inflections. Rolling waves of hair recalled Talitha Getty, while beaded macramé added tactile depth, blending eras and expanding the atelier’s decorative arsenal.
Silhouettes ranged from relaxed and full to slinky-cut narrow gowns. Chains of beads draped down backs, looping with architectural precision and reinforcing the collection’s emphasis on movement.
Elsewhere, Saab mixed prints such as leopard and tiger together for his hedonistic party animal.
However, a key throughline of both eras was freedom of movement, particularly for women, and here Saab occasionally missed the mark. Some gowns were cut so narrowly that models had to hike up their skirts mid-walk, and two even stumbled on the runway.
Looser beaded tank tops paired with full skirts or flowing metallic layers offered a counterpoint, allowing for greater mobility.
A bespoke soundtrack directed by Lukas Heerich blended psychedelic, folk and rock influences into a lush orchestral accompaniment, performed by the Scoring Orchestra and anchored by a violin solo from Mariam Mnatsakanyan. The music emphasized the collection’s escapist fantasy, evoking a sense of travel and nostalgia in a more carefree era.
